what to plant under a tree
You are not stupid enough to want to set up a garden under a mature tree. It is natural for a gardener to close his eyes and turn the hard earth, rare weeds, and bud roots into a shady corner with hostas, astilps, and jack-in-the-pulpits. Nature is good when it comes to gardening.
As with many endeavors, there is a right and wrong way to set up a garden under a tree. My training as a professional horticulturist has taught me that when planting under mature trees care is needed not to damage their roots. I also know that the plants I choose have to deal with dry soil, shade, root competition, and ever-changing humidity and light conditions. Look for plants that work well with dry shade.
Even if you are not a horticulturist, knowing the root system and cultural needs of the tree will allow you to create a garden with new plants and trees. See Tips for Planting.
Meet the needs of your tree first
Not all trees are created equal. Each one needs specific light, soil, and moisture to survive and stay healthy. When you start sowing your bottom, make every effort to work in the situation you have. Some wood species, such as oaks (Quercus spp. And CVs., USDA Hardiness Zones 4–9), are highly sensitive to large soil disturbances. Massive efforts to change the quality of the landscape or to change the pH of the soil under the tree are difficult and often impractical. For example, adding a layer of soil deeper than 2 inches can reduce the availability of moisture and oxygen and prevent the transfer of air to existing roots, which can damage or kill the trees.
The root system and canopy of a tree determine how easy or difficult it is to establish a garden under a tree. Extensive surface work between shallow-rooted trees such as maples (Acer spp. And CVs., Zones 3-9) and elms (Ulmus spp. And CVs., Zones 3-9) can be particularly troublesome. Dense canopies and umbrella-like habits of trees such as cones, Norwegian maples (Acer flavonoids and CVS, Zones 3-7), and lindens (Dillia spp and CVS, Zones 3-9) not only block sunlight but also divert rain. Only hardy plants are likely to survive in such conditions.
Can my tree root be disturbed?
Some trees are more acceptable than others in giving up some of their lands. You can still plant under trees, whose roots are sensitive to being disturbed, but your plan may need to be resized or implemented in a few years. Here are some common groups of trees that will make you happy with your efforts under their feet.
Be careful when disturbing
Peaches (Fagus spp. And CVs., Zones 3-9)
Black Oak (Quercus Velutina, Zones 4–8)
Bucks (Aesculus spp. And CVs., Zones 3–9)
Cherries and Plums (Prunus spp. And CVs., Zones 3–9)
Dogwoods (Carnus SBP and CVS, Zones 2–9)
Hemlock (Tsuga spp. And cvs., Zones 3–9)
Larix (Larix spp. And CVs., Zones 1–8)
Lindens (Delia spp. And CVS., Zones 3–9)
Magnolias (Magnolia SBP and CVS., Zones 3–9)
Pines (Pinus spp. And CVs., Zones 3-10)
Red Oaks (Quercus Rubra and CVS., Zones 5–9)
Scarlet Oaks (Quercus coccinea and CVs., Zones 5-9)
Sugar Maples (Acer Chakra and CVS, Zones 4-8)
Tolerates some troubles
Hikari's (Carya spp. And CVs., Zones 4–9)
Hornbeams (Corbinus spp. And CVS., Zones 3–9)
Ironwood (Austria Virginia, Zones 5–9)
Redbuds (Cercis canadensis and CVs., Zones 4–9)
Red Maples (Acer Rubber and CVS, Zones 3-9)
River Birches (Betula Nikra and CVS, Zones 4-9)
Sour Tree (Occidentrum Arborium, Zones 5–9)
Spruce (Picea spp. And CVs., Zones 2–8)
Swamp white oak (Quercus bicolor, Zones 4–8)
Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis, Zones 5–8)
White-gray (Fraxinus Americana and CVs., Zones 6-9)
Easy to bother
Arborvide (Tuja SBP and CVS, Zones 2–9)
Cropples (Malas SBP and CVS, Zones 3–9)
Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba and CVS, Zones 5–9)
Hawthorns (Crataegus spp. And CVs., Zones 4–9)
Honey locusts (Gleditsia triacanthos and CVs., Zones 3-7)
Kentucky coffee tree (Gymnogladus Diosa, Zones 5-9)
Beacon (Caria Illinois, Zones 5–9)
Poplars (Populus spp. And CVs., Zones 3–9)
Silver Maples (Acer Soccer and CVS, Zones 4–9)
White oak (Quercus alpha, Zones Zones – 9)
Willows (Salix spp. And CVs., Zones 4–9)
Start with small plants to reduce soil degradation
It is best to tree if you only disturb the soil where you are installing new plants. If turfgrass grows or tries to grow under your trees, it should be removed. Avoid removing grass, as this will not only break the back but also damage the delicate roots of the tree. Try crushing the grass with five or six sheets of wet newspaper. The downside of this method is that it can take two to three months to kill the grass. Chemicals like glyphosate (Roundup) will destroy the grass faster and allow for quicker planting, but I must avoid spraying herbicides on the tree because they will be absorbed through the bark.
When buying plants that grow under the tree, think a little. Once you find the plant you need, buy it in small quantities available. Smaller plants require a smaller planting hole, which will reduce the risk of damage to the roots of the tree. You may have to buy more plants, but it will be easier for you to tie them between the roots of the tree.
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