How to Grow the Best Watermelon from Seed
On hot summer afternoons, we don't need much more than the shade of a mimosa tree and a watermelon to keep us cool. My grandfather would split one open, spear the flesh with his fingers, and pull out a piece. We ate it with our hands and weren't afraid to make a mess. Watermelon and I are a match made in heaven—actually, it turns out. Little did I know then that I would marry someone from a family that has grown watermelons for the past 90 years.
While it's easy to bring watermelons home from the field, we enjoy growing them in a garden close to home. Breeding has reduced the demand for watermelons for luxury berths in the garden. And they can also be trellised. When you pick and eat a perfectly ripe watermelon from your own garden, you will understand the meaning of home fun.
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Watermelon Growing Tips
Wet soil promotes rot. Watermelons do best in well-drained soil, so plant them in mounds to avoid soggy feet. Sunlight damages the fruit. If you see a yellow band on the top of the melon, it is sunburned. Cover the melons with a basket or cloth to prevent the fruit from completely spoiling.
Gummy stem blight kills vines. To avoid this deadly disease, plant resistant varieties, rotate crops, and space plants properly. Beetles target young plants. Cucumber beetles do the most damage in early spring. Select them to remove the threat.
Which type of watermelon is best?
It all depends on what kind of watermelon you grow, what kind of flavor you like, where you live, and how big a fruit you want to harvest. The following criteria will help determine which type will lead to the best success.
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Most people prefer to sow their watermelon seeds directly in the garden because it is quick and easy. Make sure the soil is warm enough. If you can comfortably stand barefoot in the soil, the seeds will be tasty enough to germinate.
1. Build a mound of rich, fertile soil.
As these plants prefer good drainage, mound composted soil about a foot across in a mound.
2. Directly sow three to four seeds per mound.
Germination of this crop is good, so hedge your bets by planting more seeds than necessary.
3. Pinch out all but the strongest plants.
If more than one seed sprouts on top of the mound, remove the weakest seedlings and leave the best-looking plant.
4. Look at the fruits.
Your healthy plant will start bearing fruit in six to eight weeks. It won't be ready to harvest for several more weeks.
Caring for watermelon plants
Watering, fertilizing, and supporting the fruit can all lead to a strong watermelon harvest. When you reach the finish line, there are some tell-tale signs to make sure your melons are ready for picking.
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How to Feed and Support Watermelons
Watermelons need consistent watering throughout the season - at least 1 inch of water per week. Blossom-end rot caused by calcium deficiency during fruit development can be a problem. Maintaining proper soil moisture makes calcium available when needed. Watermelons are heavy feeders and may need a boost if you don't have rich soil. It is best to apply 3 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer (or organic equivalent) per 100 square feet just before planting. A little side dressing when the vines start running and a little more after the first fruit is harvested, maybe in order.
If you're wondering what to push out of your garden to make room for a watermelon, don't despair: train your watermelons to climb. When the vines start to run, send a sturdy trellis up. Because watermelons are not natural climbers, you will need to attach runners to the trellis. Once the plants have set fruit, support the growing melons with slings, which can be made from cheesecloth, nylon stockings, or old T-shirts. When the catapult completely covers the fruit, it provides protection from insects. In addition to saving space, trellising improves air circulation and helps prevent disease.
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